Each of us who cooks has the one task that drives them nuts in an otherwise enjoyable pursuit; for Kathryn, it's skinning and de-seeding tomatoes, a task I actually quite like. Me? Creaming butter and sugar. What a bloody faff. With a kitchen whose thermometer reads 6 degrees this morning, the butter, even when carefully softened by the fire, curdles. I deliberately seek recipes that avoid this dreaded task, but sometimes it's unavoidable. Things always end in a mess, even if the offer of a quiet(ish) moment to stare out the window into the mist that shrouds the hill, watching the currawongs singing, then drinking - note to self - from the blocked drain of the studio justifies the investment of energy. So, creaming. That's my thing.