Carved into roses or sliced into salads (when cleaning out the fridge drawer reveals a long-forgotten bag of them, lurking near the aging celery), the radish has a less than flamboyant reputation. Nutritionally it is no superstar – no fashionable ‘Superfood’ tag for this humble veg - but as a member of the cancer-fighting cruciferous family (think cabbage, broccoli) it has its uses. My dog-eared copy of Healing with Whole Foods lists the clearing of sinuses and soothing of sore throats among its (few) attributes. Pedestrian qualities perhaps, but admirable nonetheless. More importantly, radishes possess a crisp, peppery bite that’s perfect for raw nibbling. Pretty and pink, too.
Still, there’s that sulphurous smell unique to the cabbage family to contend with. Masking that pungency is the key. A quick and easy pickle of thin radish slices finished with a dressing of sesame oil and dark, complex tamari is my current solution.
The result? Crimped, frilly edges and a moreish balance of sweet, sour and salty. Make them part of a sushi platter, arranged next to your pink pickled ginger and obligatory swirl of wasabi. A small heap is a welcome digestive aid for a generous, Chinese-style banquet. Less conventional ways work marvellously, too – tossed with a few handfuls of salad leaves and similarly cut paper-thin rounds of carrot, the tamari and agave dressing will provide all the seasoning required. Carrots, I have discovered, themselves fridge drawer lurkers, stand up well to this method of pickling, as do small, sweet turnips. Look for perky green leaves still attached to your radishes as a sure sign of freshness - wash well and blanch briefly before chopping and using as you would any other gorgeous, health-giving green. Unthinkably easy, this recipe is also unexpectedly delicious.
Kylie Kwong’s pickled radishes
Though it is hardly a chore to slice six or eight radishes, a mandoline does make light work of the job, but only if you are confident that neither your knuckles nor your fingertips will end up on the other side of the blade. Mine is a cheap, plastic thing I’ve had for years and it’s perfect. Recipe adapted, slightly, from Simple Chinese Cooking.
6-8 red radishes, very thinly sliced
2 tablespoons of sugar
2 teaspoons of sea salt
Dressing:
1 tablespoon of tamari or shoyu
1 tablespoon of agave syrup or brown sugar
½ teaspoon of dark (toasted/roasted) sesame oil
A good pinch of chilli powder
Toss the radish slices with the sugar and salt and leave to marinate for 30 minutes.
Whisk the dressing ingredients together in a small bowl. Drain and gently squeeze the radishes, draining away the pickling mixture, then drizzle with the dressing.
How do you use radishes?
I love radishes, but I didn't start liking them until I came to Europe, ten years ago. Do these stay a bit crisp after marinating? I can never find pickled radish for my pad thai, would this recipe work for me?
Posted by: mari | March 06, 2008 at 10:29 PM
I love, love, love your first picture of the radishes. It's eerie and otherwordly and perfect.
I've never been a fan of the actual radishes themselves, but never thought of pickling them. Very interesting. Will let you know how it turns out...
Posted by: Lizzie | March 07, 2008 at 03:47 AM
Yum, looking forward to these coming back!
I like variations on David Hall's radish and bean salad recipe:
http://bookthecook.blogspot.com/2007/02/beans-beans-good-for-your-heart.html
Posted by: Sophie | March 08, 2008 at 10:56 PM
You never fail to inspire me - I have a bunch of radishes in the kitchen ready to go!
Kylie Kwong - often walked past her restaurant when in Sydney, but have a slight hesitation about going in. Usually I end up in Bills, or that quirky little upstairs Thai place just down the road, with awful service but brilliant food.
Posted by: vegeyum | March 09, 2008 at 12:58 PM
Well, I've never been a bit fan of radishes, but for this recipe, I'm going to make an exception! This looks delicious. I am filing this recipe away for summer and can't wait to give it a go.
Posted by: Ricki | March 11, 2008 at 05:15 PM
Thanks, Lucy. And of course, I meant "a big fan." (Must learn to leave comments when I am actually awake!!)
Posted by: Ricki | March 12, 2008 at 03:11 AM
Radishes never used to agree with me, too spicy and harsh. Then I learned to eat them with unsalted butter and a hit of salt on bread (baguette is best). Somehow that treatment cuts the sting but leaves a delightful crunch.
Posted by: Vivian | July 16, 2009 at 02:08 AM
Vivian: Yes, that French way is so good. Creamy, pale, unsalted butter against the sharp crunch is divine. Lovely reminder - thank you!
Posted by: Lucy | July 16, 2009 at 08:22 AM
Radish Maggots got most of my radishes. Can I cut out the damage to the roots, and then eat the rest?
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