The kookaburra is an early riser. He wakes before the sun breaks the dark silence of the suburbs to open his beak and cackle deeply. Another joins in, then another. The joke, it would seem, is on the sleepy - spring mornings in my father's garden are simply too good to miss. Soon afterward the Rainbow Lorikeets chime in - noisy, clattering, manic - but it is the melodic, sonorous call of the Butcher Bird that resonates most deeply. He is small, lovely, elusive. I tried to capture him, but each carefully calculated swoop was deliberately timed, I am sure, to maintain complete anonymity. One of the rarer creatures in a beautiful, glamourous (clamourous) city.
Glittering Sydney - that Bridge! those Sails! that sparkling Harbour! - isn't my Sydney, though a small tear in the corner of my left eye (always the left...) crossing The Bridge made me wonder, this time, if that is entirely true. Places are nothing without the people who make them, granted, but Sydney is without doubt far more outwardly seductive than my southern home.
Growing up, it was the Northern Beaches that held our family in thrall - Deewhy, Mona Vale and, when feeling brave, the wild, rough surf of North Palm called (we're good swimmers, thankfully). I can proudly say that I have never swum at Bondi; the beach itself is a place where the Beautiful People like to parade. The offspring of media magnates, large-breasted pin-up girls and British backpackers, betrayed only by their accents, so deeply tanned that you'd think they were born and bred on these sandy shores.
Step back from the main drag however, away from the glam, and you'll find pre-historic-looking frangipani trees in every street, Orthodox Jews, resplendant in their out-of-kilter cold-weather religious garb, laundromats a-hoy, crumbling blocks of sea-sprayed flats and second-hand bookshops that double as meeting spots for artistic folk.
And, close to the top of the hill, lives my best friend Jo.
The eating, as always, was good. A lunch of dukkah-sprinkled fried eggs with a friend in Newtown made me oddly nostalgic, winding our way through back streets I still know as well as the proverbial back of my hand; a long walk, from Bondi to Surry Hills, ended in a long, tipsy lunch at the exquisite Red Lantern and, later, blistered feet; dinner with Mum and Dad at the darkly lit, stylish Modern Turkish Efendy and an early, restrained, yet giggly (always) dinner at The Glebe Point Diner, with Kylie.
The week was spent arms bared to the warmer days. My mother's perfectly hung washing dried in a flash and I came back a shade or two darker. The weekend here was no different - glorious sunny skies prevailed. That lemon tree is still full of ripe, golden globes and something had to be done. Something unthinkably easy and warm-weather friendly. So very nice to be home.
Lemon barley water
Something as old fashioned as this is incredibly thirst-quenching, though not at all like that which you can buy ready-made. The pearled barley I keep isn't quite as 'pearled' as the stuff you'll (generally) find in supermarkets, thus the longer cooking time. If yours is completely pearled - which is in fact desirable here - reduce the cooking time by half. Perfect as warmer days, in theory, settle in.
3-4 lemons
1/2 cup of unrefined sugar
1 1/2 litres of water (1 1/2 quarts)
3 heaped tablespoons of semi-pearled barley
Using a vegetable peeler, pare the skin from each lemon in long strips. Place the skins in a large heatproof bowl and add the sugar, scrunching thoroughly to release the fragrant oils with your fingers (Very Satisfying). Juice the lemons.
Bring the water and barley to a boil then reduce to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes. Pour the water and barley, while still hot, over the sugar and peel, then add the lemon juice. Stir well, then leave to cool to room temperature.
Strain into a large jug, top with loads of ice and drink on a sunny afternoon.
There are more photos here, should you be so inclined.
Welcome back. Wasn't the wind and rain marvelous today, just when you think Melbourne has turned its summery corner - whack!
At home for me it was the Tuis (aka bellbirds) with their high pitched warble waking me each morning. Hearing the birds from my homeland makes my heart sing. Back in Melbourne the gaudy locals make me laugh, they bring a smile to my face but my heart doesn't skip a beat.
The barley water looks good, lets hope the sun returns to enjoy it :)
Posted by: another outspoken female | September 15, 2008 at 07:41 PM
Great photos! Makes me want to flee to your side of the world, to escape the gray days and rainy weather that I know is on it's way!
Posted by: Mari | September 15, 2008 at 07:46 PM
Oh you made me so homesick for Sydney. Walking from Bondi to Surry Hills - I am impressed. I so love Sydney.
Melbourne - yes so different. A place of soul, where Sydney is a place of body. If you know what I mean.
Posted by: Ganga VegeYum | September 15, 2008 at 09:05 PM
Welcome back! I think your photos made ME homesick for Sydney, too--and I've never been there! But now I must. MUST.
Posted by: Ricki | September 16, 2008 at 01:05 AM
oh, the frangipani photo is wonderful (as art the others, of course.)
Posted by: maybelles mom (feeding maybelle) | September 16, 2008 at 04:06 AM
Not the Kylie?! ;)
Sounds like a wonderful, wonderful weekend. I've always thought Melbourne would be the city I'd like best in Australia but I'm now beginning to wonder.
Off to see my best friend next weekend too. You've just made me look forward to it that wee bit more.
And you know how I feel about that bird.
Posted by: Wendy | September 16, 2008 at 05:59 AM
lovely story and lovely photos - bright and evocative - I love sydney's sites but it seems so superficial to me - maybe because I don't know people there (I did love it more when my sister lived there)
love the lemon barley water - have never made it but it always seems quite old fashioned and reminds me of watching tennis as a child
Posted by: Johanna | September 16, 2008 at 09:32 AM
You capture the light wherever you are. The daffodils - they reminded me it won't be summer forever. Spring seems so innocent compared to the end of summer with it's split ends and worn lipstick.
I've never entertained a pearled barley and hardly know where to begin to find one but I must if only to work the lemon peel into the sugar and say good by to the last warms days as they take up residence in your side of this crazy miraculous world.
Posted by: katrina | September 16, 2008 at 04:04 PM
As always, your writing and photos are so captivating! Sounds like all is well your way! Your new site is lovely Lucy!
Posted by: deb | September 17, 2008 at 01:42 AM
I'm scooping up all those birdies and taking them across the seas with me. Such darling creatures.
Lemon barley water, gently warm, would be just the thing to chase my still-lingering cold away.
Posted by: Susan | September 17, 2008 at 02:29 AM
I can't get over those handsome birds!!! The sights and sentiments of home are beautifully described and somehow reminiscent of all trips back home...
Posted by: Callipygia | September 17, 2008 at 10:57 AM
thanks for the virtual tour, dear lucy. the lemon barley water is a childhood favourite of mine.
as our summer comes to an end, it's good to see those in the southern hemisphere enjoying it.
Posted by: bee | September 18, 2008 at 07:29 AM
Hi Lucy,
I enjoyed this post. I'm sitting here in Maine as fall starts to set in and it is fantastic to be transported to such as exotic place in someone else's life. I liked all you photos, but especially the beach, the laundry drying and the friend's appartment (I think) photos.
Posted by: meg wolff | September 18, 2008 at 08:19 AM
Glad to hear you enjoyed the rest of your stay Lucy - but isn't it always lovely to get home.
The route I walk in the morning is full of kookaburras and if I'm up early enough I can stand under the telegraph poles and watch them throwing back their heads. Ready for THAT LAUGH. Which always sets me off, laughing in response.
Posted by: kathryn | September 18, 2008 at 08:51 AM
Exsqueeze me?! when the hell were you in Sydney? How did I miss that? You were in Newtown and you didn't say hi? or at least leave a message with the Curry Leaf Cat??!!
Posted by: Carson | September 18, 2008 at 03:57 PM
I cannot believe that Rainbow Lorikeet, it is like nothing I have seen before! Wow!
Posted by: holler | September 18, 2008 at 07:44 PM
Hi Lucy,
Sounds like a perfect week in Sydney. :-)
Lemon barley water reminds me of home (i.e. Singapore), love it! Mom uses "rock sugar". I brought some back with me, but never got round to make it. I also like to make barley water with pandanus leaf, when I find some at Paddy's.
have a lovely weekend ahead!
Nora
Posted by: Nora | September 19, 2008 at 08:09 AM